GCP # 4, Paper Patterns plus CD with instructions 1812-1820

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Paper patterns with instructions on CD, including historical information of the times.


Three wonderful dresses and an intricate spencer comprise part 4 of the Gildebrief Centruy Project, covering the period of about 1812 to 1820. A dreamy ball gown in gossamer silk and glossy satin from about 1814, a cotton day dress from about 1816-18, a cotton voile dress from about 1820 with heavy hem decoration, a silk spencer with tabs and tassels worn throughout the early 1800s, plus a huge-brimmed velvet hat make up this part of the continuing project!

There is also information on dyeing silk cord, ribbons etc. (like the covered wooden balls) without water.

 MATERIALS:

Striped Blue-White Dress

About 1816-1818

 . Striped cotton fabric (FC-01 or FC-02), 1 m wide, – 70 cm  (unfortunaly sthe original fabric is sold out )

Cotton mousseline or batiste – 25 x 15 cm (bodice lining)

. Lace, ca. 7 mm wide – 190 cm, decoration (I no longer have any of the lace in the photo, so any other narrow, scalloped lace or braid will work fine. Even narrow vandyked Swiss embroidered lace would be suitable. Vandyke trims were popular)

. Ribbon, 7 mm and 5 mm wide, 4 meters each – decoration

. Picot soutache (TR-4012), 1.5 mm wide, col. 3- 60 cm, ties for sleeves

. Piping cord, about 1.5 to 2 mm thick, 150 cm

. 1 hook

. Narrow tie ribbon, 60 cm

Aqua and Ecru Ball Gown

About 1814-1816

 - Silk mousseline (or chiffon), ecru 137 cm wide - 40 cm

- Silk crepe satin (CSS-857), aqua, 138 cm wide, 50 cm

-  Silk/cotton bias strip for binding the neck edge, 40 cm

- Silk crepe satin, ecru (CSS-803), satin slip, sleeve band and waist band for dress, 40 x 137 cm

- Val lace, 7 mm wide (VAL-3033), neck and sleeve edge, 120 cm

- Malines lace, 50 mm wide, (200 515), 1 meter

- Silk tulle, ecru, 60 x 60 cm for shawl

- Malines lace, 25 mm wide,(205 329) for shawl, 230 cm

- Sequins, silver, 3 mm wide, plus tiny white beads – about 160

- Small amount blue silk thread for embroidery on waistband and stitching on bodice.

- Narrow tie, about 60 cm

- 1 hook

- Short piece of cotton fabric for waistband covering

Lavender-Ecru Dress

About 1818-1820

- Cotton voile, 150 cm wide, ecru/lavender (BWL-2076), 1 meter

  (about 5 meters of 6 cm wide bias strips are needed for the flounces)

- Piping cord, about 2 mm thick, 5 meters

- Malines lace (200 472) for the flounce, 5 meters

- Val lace, 7 mm wide (Val-3040), neck and sleeves, 1 meter

- Silk ribbon, natural white,10 mm wide, lining the waistband, 26 cm

- Press-on very lightweight interfacing, 23 x 1 cm

- Narrow tape for the neckline, 60 cm

- 1 hook

 

Spencer

About 1812-1820, 

- Silk jacquard, 30 x 100 cm, spencer ( (JAC-3203 is sold out but any of the other silk jacquard fabrics would also look lovely)

- Silk/cotton (PR-SC-3013), 20 x 45 cm, lining

- Silk crepe satin (CSS-844), smoky berry, for bias strips (about 4 meters of about 2.5 - 3 cm wide strips), 50 cm x 138 cm

- Press-on finest interfacing, about 3.50 meters, 1 cm wide, all tabs and waistband

- Small length of 7 mm wide silk ribbon, casing for waist

- Silk cord, ecru (TR-4024), ca. 3 meters, decoration

- 12 matching 6 mm beads or toggles, decorationunfortunately, I have none of the white ones left, only black ones, except a very few for some kits. You could make your own with silk sewing thread crocheted over cotton wool balls, or just use some matching beads or just make some tassels.

- 1 hook, 2 snaps (black)

- Narrow tie tape, 60 cm

 

Velvet Hat

About 1818-1820

- Silk/rayon velvet, brown, (DAR-0131), 30 x 40 cm

- Hat wire, medium to strong, about 60 cm

- Brim cover (face), silk crepe satin (from petticoat), 20 x 20 cm

- Art. Flowers

- Tie ribbon

- Hat band decoration braid, 60 cm

- Lining silk, 20 x 30 cm

- Decorative ribbon, 7-8 mm wide, ombré: for the shell design you need about 10 x the circumference (about 4.5 to 5 meters).

-1.20 meters x 15 mm wide Val lace

- Very thin cardboard or heavy paper, or medium buckram

General Materials

- GILPOL 200/2 thread for hand stitching 

- Cotton and silk thread 

- Magnifying glasses

- Thread snips 

- Roller cutter for bias strips and mat (invaluable)

- Sewing needles # 12 – lots!  I lose mine constantly!

- Hard-to-hold hairspray (to set lace etc.)

- Thick darning needle (for threading tape etc.) 

- White glue 

 

 

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